How much does Caulking cost in LA?

Single tub or shower recaulk: $80–$140

The most common LA caulking call is a single tub or shower — pulling out the old failed caulk along the change-of-plane joints (where wall meets tub, where wall meets wall in the corners, where tile meets the shower pan) and laying in fresh sealant. For a standard 5-foot tub or a 32x32-inch shower stall, the typical LA price is $80–$140.

What's actually included: cutting and pulling the old caulk with a caulk-removal tool, scraping the joint clean down to bare tile and substrate, wiping the joint with denatured alcohol or isopropyl to remove residue, masking both sides of the joint with painter's tape, gunning fresh 100 percent silicone sealant (GE Silicone II Kitchen & Bath or Sashco Sashpro 100% Silicone are the two LA pros use most), tooling the bead smooth with a wet finger or a caulk-finishing tool, and pulling the tape before the silicone skins over.

What's not included unless you specify: regrouting failing tile joints adjacent to the caulk line, replacing tiles that come loose during caulk removal, or treating mold growth that's bloomed under the old caulk into the substrate. Most LA pros will quote those separately if they spot them once the old caulk is out.

Bathroom recaulk: $120–$220

A full bathroom recaulk — all the change-of-plane joints in the shower, tub, around the vanity backsplash, and along the toilet base where it meets the floor — runs $120–$220 in Los Angeles. For a standard 5x8 bathroom with one tub and a single vanity, expect the lower end. For a master bath with separate tub and shower, a long double vanity, or extra fixtures, expect the upper end.

What's actually included: removing all failing caulk throughout the bathroom (typically 30–60 linear feet of joint), cleaning and prepping each joint, masking, gunning fresh silicone, tooling, and a final wipe-down. The whole job is typically a single 2–4 hour visit plus a 24-hour cure before water exposure.

One thing pros won't do unless you specifically ask: caulking the toilet base all the way around. Plumbing code in California requires the back of the toilet base to be left uncaulked (usually a 2-inch gap at the rear) so a leaking wax ring shows water on the floor instead of trapping it under the toilet where it rots the subfloor. A pro who silently caulks the full circumference is doing it wrong.

Kitchen recaulk: $100–$180

Kitchen caulking — backsplash to countertop, sink rim to counter, range to counter, around faucets — runs $100–$180. The lower end covers a single-bowl sink and a standard tile or quartz backsplash. The upper end covers double sinks, peninsula or island returns, multiple appliance gaps, and longer backsplash runs.

Kitchen joints are where sealant choice matters most. A 100 percent silicone is fine for sink rims and range gaps. But the long backsplash-to-counter joint often looks better in a paintable hybrid sealant (DAP Dynaflex Ultra or GE Sealants Advanced Silicone 2 Window & Door, depending on the look the homeowner wants), because pure silicone can't be painted over and yellows slightly over years. For a sleek modern look, color-matched silicone tooled clean is the right call. For a craftsman or transitional kitchen where the backsplash trim is painted, a paintable hybrid is usually better.

Exterior windows: $200–$380 whole home

Exterior window caulking — sealing the perimeter of windows where they meet the stucco, siding, or trim — runs $200–$380 for a whole-home job on a typical 1,500–2,500 sq ft LA single-family home. For a smaller bungalow with 8–10 windows, expect the lower end. For a larger home with 15–20 windows or hard-to-reach second-story openings, expect the upper end.

Sealant choice for exterior windows is different from interior. Most LA pros use a polyurethane sealant (Sika Sikaflex 1a, Tremco Vulkem 116) for stucco-to-window joints because it bonds to porous stucco better than silicone, paints cleanly, and stays flexible through LA's temperature swings. For wood-trim windows, a high-quality acrylic latex with silicone (DAP Alex Ultra 230, GE Silicone 2+ Paintable) is more common because it accepts paint and cleans up with water.

Exterior windows are the place where Westside marine air shows up most clearly. Homes within a mile or two of the Pacific — Pacific Palisades, Santa Monica, Venice, Marina del Rey, parts of Manhattan Beach — see exterior caulk fail in 5–8 years instead of the typical 10–15 years inland. The combination of salt mist, UV, and constant low-grade humidity breaks down sealant chemistry faster. Plan for a recaulk on a tighter cycle if you're west of the 405.

Why sealant choice matters: silicone vs hybrid vs polyurethane

The three main sealant families used by LA handymen each have different best-uses, and using the wrong one in the wrong joint is the single most common reason caulking fails early.

• 100% silicone (GE Silicone II, Sashco Sashpro): the right choice for kitchens and bathrooms where the joint sees water daily. Bonds well to glass, glazed tile, porcelain, and most metals. Cannot be painted. Will not bond to fresh wood or porous stucco well — wrong choice for exterior trim.
• Hybrid (DAP Dynaflex Ultra, OSI Quad Max, GE Advanced Silicone 2 Paintable): a middle-ground sealant that handles both wet and dry, bonds to most surfaces including paint, and accepts paint over the top after cure. Right choice for kitchen backsplashes, baseboards adjacent to wet areas, and interior trim near tile.
• Polyurethane (Sika Sikaflex 1a, Tremco Vulkem 116): the right choice for exterior stucco-to-window, masonry joints, and any joint that has to flex more than a quarter-inch with temperature. Bonds to porous and rough surfaces other sealants slip on. Paints well. Smells strong during application — pros use ventilation.
• Acrylic latex (DAP Alex Plus, DAP Alex Ultra 230): cheap, easy, paintable. Right for non-wet interior trim joints — baseboards, crown molding, door casings. Wrong for any wet area, where it will mold and shrink within 2–3 years.

Why hard water destroys shower silicone

Even the best 100 percent silicone bead in an LA shower has a real-world life of 3–5 years before it needs replacing, and LADWP hard water is the main reason. Calcium and magnesium minerals in LA tap water (100–180 ppm) deposit on every wet surface — including silicone caulk — and over time the deposits etch and weaken the surface. Combined with daily soap scum, the bead accumulates a film that becomes a substrate for mildew growth even when the silicone itself is mold-resistant.

East-side LA neighborhoods (Highland Park, Eagle Rock, Pasadena, Mt. Washington) sit at the harder end of LADWP's range and chew through silicone seals faster — sometimes 2–4 years instead of the 3–5 norm. Westside homes (Santa Monica, Mar Vista, Culver City) sit at the softer end and often see 5–7 years from a quality silicone bead in a shower.

Pros who recaulk LA showers regularly will sometimes recommend a few habit changes that double caulk life: squeegee the corners after each shower, run the bath fan for 20–30 minutes after, and avoid acidic cleaners (CLR, vinegar, Lime-A-Way) directly on the silicone bead. None of this is mandatory; it just stretches the recaulk cycle from every 4 years to every 6–8.

What you can do to make the work last longer

Three habits keep recaulked joints looking clean longer in LA conditions:

• Run bathroom fans on a 20–30 minute timer after every shower. Bath fans built into LA condo and apartment construction are usually undersized for the space — a delta of 50 cfm where 80 cfm is needed — so run time matters more than fan strength. A simple Leviton or Lutron timer switch is a $40–$60 upgrade a handyman can install while onsite for the recaulk.
• Squeegee shower walls and the bottom shower-pan corners after the last person uses the shower each day. Standing water on silicone is what feeds mildew and accelerates mineral deposition. Two minutes a day adds 1–2 years to the bead.
• Avoid acidic cleaners directly on the silicone bead. CLR, Lime-A-Way, and undiluted vinegar are all formulated to dissolve calcium scale and they don't distinguish between scale on tile and the silicone itself. Use a non-acidic daily shower spray (Method, Mrs. Meyer's, or even diluted dish soap) on the silicone bead and reserve acidic cleaners for the tile face only, applied with a sponge rather than a spray.