What outlets / switches actually involves
Outlet and switch installation is the work of replacing, upgrading, or adding the small electrical devices behind every cover plate in your home — the receptacles you plug things into, the toggles and dimmers that control your lights, and the smart controls that connect them to apps. The job sounds trivial because each device is cheap and small, but the wiring inside the box is doing serious work: pushing 15 or 20 amps of 120-volt current through copper conductors, terminating onto small screw lugs that have to be tight, and protecting your home from the most common cause of residential fires — overheated electrical connections. A clean install means devices that work for 30 years; a sloppy install means a connection that arcs, melts the receptacle face, and starts a fire inside the wall.
In most Los Angeles homes you are dealing with one of three wiring vintages. Post-1972 construction uses copper conductors with insulated grounds and dedicated neutrals at almost every box, which is the easy case. Homes built between roughly 1965 and 1973 — common in pockets of the Valley, parts of Pasadena, and stretches of Silver Lake — were wired with solid-strand aluminum, which expands and contracts more than copper, oxidizes at terminations, and absolutely requires CO/ALR-rated devices and special anti-oxidant connectors when worked on. Pre-1960 homes (Hollywood bungalows, Highland Park craftsmans, much of the Eastside) were wired with knob-and-tube or early two-wire cloth-jacket cable, often with no ground at all, meaning a modern three-prong outlet cannot legally be installed without GFCI protection or running a true ground.
A good pro arrives with a non-contact voltage tester, a calibrated torque screwdriver, the device you actually want (CO/ALR if needed, TR-rated as required by code in dwellings, GFCI where the National Electrical Code mandates it), and the patience to test every receptacle and switch they touch before walking out. They will pull the device, photograph the existing wiring before disturbing it, identify line versus load, terminate to manufacturer torque spec, fold conductors neatly back into the box, and verify polarity and ground with a plug-in tester. Cheap installs skip the testing step. Expensive failures usually trace back to that skipped step.
When you need this service
An outlet stops working, gets warm to the touch, sparks when you plug something in, or shows visible scorch marks on the face. Any of those means the device or the connection behind it is failing — not next month, now. Warm receptacles are typically loose backstab connections; sparking is usually arcing across a worn contact; scorch marks mean a connection has already overheated and you are one event away from a fire. Replace it, and have the pro check the upstream and downstream devices on the same circuit.
You are upgrading a kitchen, bathroom, garage, laundry room, or any exterior outlet to GFCI. The 2023 California Electrical Code requires GFCI protection on every receptacle in those locations, and most LA homes built before 2002 have at least a few that do not comply. GFCI prevents shock when an appliance leaks current to ground — the difference between a startled jump and a hospital visit. If you are selling the house, an inspector will flag missing GFCI; if you are renting it out, your insurance carrier may exclude electrical claims if a grandfathered installation caused harm.
You want to switch to smart lighting. Lutron Caseta, Leviton Decora Smart, and GE Cync turn any switch into something you can control by phone, voice, or schedule, and they are the single most-installed smart-home upgrade in West Hollywood, Beverly Hills, and Brentwood. The hardware is straightforward; the friction is the wiring (some smart switches need a neutral wire, which many older LA boxes lack) and the app pairing. A pro who has installed 50 of them gets it done in 30 minutes per switch including app setup. A first-timer can lose an afternoon to one kitchen.
You are tired of looking for a free outlet to charge your phone. USB-A and USB-C wall outlets — Leviton TR-USB, Topgreener — are now mainstream in DTLA condos, Pasadena family homes, and any kid's room. They replace a standard duplex receptacle in 15 minutes, give you two USB ports plus two regular plugs, and eliminate the wall-wart adapter clutter. USB-C with Power Delivery (typically 30W or 45W) charges modern laptops and tablets at full speed.
You have two-prong outlets in an older home and want three-prong. This is one of the most common LA upgrade requests because every modern appliance, computer, and surge protector expects a ground. The honest path is one of three: run an actual ground wire back to the panel (best, expensive), install a GFCI receptacle and label all downstream outlets as 'GFCI Protected, No Equipment Ground' (legal, cheap, code-compliant), or replace the entire branch circuit (right answer for an extensive remodel). A pro will tell you which makes sense for your specific run.
How to choose the right pro
Confirm the pro knows the difference between CO/ALR and standard devices, and ask them what they would install in a 1968 Valley home. The right answer is CO/ALR-rated outlets and switches with anti-oxidant compound on the terminations, or copper pigtails using purple AlumiConn or COPALUM connectors at every device. The wrong answer — standard copper-only devices crammed onto aluminum conductors — is how aluminum-wiring fires start. If a pro shrugs at this question, they are not the pro for an older LA home.
Ask whether they torque-spec their terminations. The National Electrical Code requires torque values listed on every device (typically 12–14 in-lb for receptacles), and the difference between hand-tight and torqued is the difference between a connection that lasts decades and one that loosens in two summers. A pro who carries a torque screwdriver is signaling they take the job seriously. Most do not, which is fine for low-traffic switches, but kitchen and laundry outlets that move 15+ amps regularly are where torque matters most.
Verify they pull the device fully out of the box and inspect the wiring before quoting. A pro who quotes from the doorway is guessing. The actual install difficulty depends on box fill (how many conductors are crammed into a small box), wire condition (brittle insulation on 1950s rubber-jacket cable is a different job than 2010s NM-B), and whether the box itself is grounded. Five extra minutes of inspection prevents a surprise upcharge mid-job.
Read recent reviews specifically for outlet and switch work, not generic 'electrical' reviews. A pro might be excellent at panel upgrades and mediocre at finish-out work, or vice versa. On Shatun Brothers, every review tags the service category, so you can filter to 'outlet-switch-installation' jobs only and see how this pro performs on the specific work you are hiring for.
For smart switch installs, confirm the pro has done your specific brand. Lutron Caseta has its own app, hub, and pairing dance. Leviton Decora Smart talks directly to WiFi (no hub) but has stricter signal requirements. GE Cync is cheaper but flakier. A pro who has installed 100 Lutrons will set up your six-switch kitchen in under an hour. Someone doing it for the first time will be on the phone with Lutron support while you wait.
Ask about cleanup and patch. Replacing a device rarely damages the wall, but adding a new outlet (running wire from an existing one) means cutting drywall and patching. Some pros patch and texture, some leave you with an open hole and a referral to a drywall pro. Get the cleanup expectation in writing before they start cutting.
Pricing in Los Angeles
Standard outlet replacement in Los Angeles runs $80–130 for the labor on a single device, and standard switch replacement is in the same range. This assumes a like-for-like swap on a copper-wired box where the existing device comes out cleanly and the new one goes back in without surprises. Most pros price the first device higher and additional devices on the same visit lower — so two outlets in the same room is usually $130–180 total, not 2x $130. Ask for a multi-device quote if you have a list.
GFCI outlet installation runs $100–150 in a kitchen, bathroom, garage, or exterior location, including the device itself which costs $18–35 retail. The price premium over standard is partly the device cost and partly the extra care needed for LINE-versus-LOAD orientation — get this wrong and the GFCI works at its own face but does not protect downstream outlets, which is a code violation. A USB outlet upgrade is $100–160 and a USB-C with Power Delivery is $120–180 because the device itself costs $25–50.
Smart switch installation, specifically Lutron Caseta which is the LA favorite, runs $140–220 per switch including hardware acquisition assistance, install, and app pairing. The Caseta dimmer itself is $60 retail, the wireless wall remote is $25, and a hub is required for the system ($80–150 one-time). For a six-switch whole-home Caseta install, expect $900–1,400 including hardware. Cheaper bundles exist on Amazon but the install labor stays in the $120–180 per switch range regardless of who supplies the hardware.
Adding a new outlet — meaning running fresh wire from an existing source to a new location — runs $180–380 depending on access. A new outlet on the same wall as the source is the cheap end (drill, fish, terminate, patch). A new outlet across the room or upstairs from a downstairs source is the expensive end (open multiple drywall sections, fish through framing, sometimes pull a permit). For permit-required work in Los Angeles, add $150–300 in city fees and inspection time.
DIY vs hiring a pro
Standard outlet and switch replacement is genuinely DIY-able for someone willing to do it once carefully. The full procedure: turn off the breaker for that circuit at the panel, verify dead with a non-contact tester at the device (touch the tester to each wire, confirm no beep), photograph the existing wiring connections, unscrew the device, transfer wires one at a time to the matching terminals on the new device, verify polarity (hot to brass, neutral to silver, ground to green), screw the device back into the box, restore power, and test with a plug-in outlet tester ($8 at Home Depot). The whole thing is 15–20 minutes once you have done one. The catch: you have to actually verify dead before touching wires, every time, no exceptions.
GFCI outlets are the same procedure with two extra wires and one critical orientation: the LINE terminals connect to the wires bringing power into the box, and the LOAD terminals connect to wires going out to downstream outlets. Reverse them and the GFCI works at its own face but provides no protection downstream. If only two wires (one black, one white, plus ground) come into the box, the LINE/LOAD distinction does not matter — but you should still test with a GFCI tester after install. Smart switches are similarly DIY-friendly hardware-wise; the hours of friction are app pairing, hub setup, and figuring out scenes — not wiring.
Hire a pro when any of these are true. You have aluminum wiring (anything 1965–1973-ish, look for 'AL' or 'CU-AL' stamped on the conductor jackets at the panel). You are running new wire to add an outlet rather than swapping existing ones. The box is metal and you are not sure if it is properly grounded. You see scorch marks, melted insulation, or aluminum that is dark and crumbly when you flex it. The smart switch you bought needs a neutral wire and your switch box only has hot and traveler. The receptacle is on a multi-wire branch circuit (two hots sharing a neutral) — these are deceptive and dangerous if disturbed wrong. Anything in those scenarios costs less to hire out than to fix after a mistake.
Common mistakes to avoid
Not turning off the breaker, or turning off the wrong one. Every year people get shocked because they assumed a switch was off, or because the breaker labeled 'kitchen' actually controlled the dining room and a previous owner mislabeled the panel. The correct procedure is always the same: flip the breaker you think controls the circuit, walk to the device, touch a non-contact voltage tester to the wires before touching them with bare hands. If the tester beeps, you found the wrong breaker. Two extra minutes of testing prevents the one accident that ends the project early.
Reversing LINE and LOAD on a GFCI. The GFCI itself works either way — plug a hair dryer into its face, hit the test button, the dryer turns off. But if LINE and LOAD are swapped, every outlet downstream of the GFCI is unprotected, and the homeowner thinks they have whole-bathroom GFCI protection when they actually have a single protected receptacle. Always test downstream outlets with a GFCI tester after install. If the GFCI does not trip when you test the downstream outlet, LINE and LOAD are reversed.
Using the wrong wire gauge for the breaker amperage. A 20-amp circuit (typical for kitchen outlets, garage outlets, and laundry) requires 12 AWG copper wire. A 15-amp circuit (typical for bedroom and living room receptacles) requires 14 AWG. If you add a new outlet on what you think is a 15-amp circuit but is actually 20-amp, and you use 14 AWG wire, the breaker will let the wire heat up to fire temperatures before tripping. Check the breaker amperage before pulling new wire, and use 12 AWG when in any doubt — it is fine on a 15-amp circuit, but 14 AWG is not fine on a 20-amp circuit.
Buying a smart switch that needs a neutral wire when your switch box does not have one. This is the most common LA smart-home pitfall, especially in homes built before 1985 where the original wiring ran a hot loop to the switch and back to the fixture without bringing a neutral to the switch box. The fix is either picking a smart switch designed for no-neutral installation (Lutron Caseta dimmers work this way for most loads, GE makes a no-neutral line, Leviton has specific SKUs) or running a neutral, which means opening drywall. Check what is in the box before you order.
Painting over an outlet or switch. Painters in a hurry tape the device but not the receptacle slots, and paint flakes get inside the contacts. Six months later the outlet stops holding plugs, or worse, arcs because the contact spring is gummed up. The fix is replacing the device. The prevention is removing the cover plate during paint, masking the device face properly, and never painting the device itself. If you bought a house with painted outlets, replace them — they are unreliable.
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to replace an outlet or switch in Los Angeles?+
Standard outlet or switch replacement runs $80–130 in labor for a single device, and pros usually discount additional devices on the same visit. GFCI outlets run $100–150, USB outlets $100–160, and smart switches like Lutron Caseta $140–220 per switch including hardware setup and app pairing.
How long does it take to install an outlet or switch?+
A like-for-like swap takes 15–25 minutes per device for a pro. A whole-room of six devices is usually 90–120 minutes. Adding a new outlet by running wire to a new location takes 1–3 hours depending on access. Smart switch app pairing adds 10–20 minutes per switch, mostly waiting on the hub.
Do I need GFCI outlets in my LA home?+
Yes, the 2023 California Electrical Code requires GFCI protection on every receptacle in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, laundry rooms, exterior locations, unfinished basements, and within six feet of any sink. If your home was built before 2002 there is a good chance some of these are not GFCI-protected yet, and a home inspector will flag them during a sale.
Can I install a smart switch myself?+
The wiring is genuinely DIY-friendly if you are comfortable replacing standard switches — same procedure with one or two extra wires. The friction is two-fold: confirming your switch box has a neutral wire (many older LA boxes do not), and pairing the device with the hub and app. Lutron Caseta is the most reliable for first-timers; Leviton Decora Smart and GE Cync are cheaper but flakier on app setup.
What is aluminum wiring and how do I know if I have it?+
Aluminum wiring was used in residential branch circuits roughly 1965–1973 because copper prices spiked. It is found in pockets of the San Fernando Valley, Pasadena, and Silver Lake. Open your panel and look at the conductor jackets — if they are stamped 'AL' or 'CU-AL,' you have aluminum. It is not inherently dangerous but it requires CO/ALR-rated devices and anti-oxidant connectors at every termination. Standard devices on aluminum wire is one of the leading causes of older-home electrical fires.
My home has two-prong outlets — can I upgrade to three-prong?+
Yes, three legal paths. First, run a true ground wire from the outlet back to the panel (most expensive, best result). Second, install a GFCI receptacle in place of the two-prong and label it and any downstream outlets 'GFCI Protected, No Equipment Ground' — this is fully code-compliant and cheap. Third, rewire the circuit during a remodel. The wrong path is installing a three-prong outlet without ground or GFCI, which is illegal and dangerous because surge protectors and grounded appliances will not actually be grounded.
Do USB outlets really replace the wall-wart charger?+
Yes, and they are one of the most-installed upgrades in LA condos and family homes. Leviton and Topgreener make USB-A and USB-C duplex outlets that look like a normal receptacle but include two USB ports rated for 3.6A to 5A combined. USB-C with Power Delivery (30W or 45W) charges modern laptops and tablets at full speed. Install is the same 15-minute swap as a standard outlet.
What does CO/ALR mean on a switch or outlet?+
CO/ALR stands for Copper/Aluminum Revised, indicating the device is rated for direct connection to aluminum conductors. The terminals use a specific alloy and design that handles aluminum's expansion-contraction cycle without loosening. If you have aluminum wiring, every switch and outlet in your home must be CO/ALR-rated, or copper pigtailed at the device using purple AlumiConn or COPALUM connectors. Standard copper-only devices on aluminum wiring is a fire risk.
Why does my outlet feel warm?+
A warm outlet means a connection inside is loose and arcing, or the device is undersized for the load (a 15-amp outlet on a 20-amp circuit pulling close to 20 amps will heat up). Either way, it is a fire risk. Stop using it, turn off the breaker, and have a pro replace the device and inspect the upstream and downstream outlets on the same circuit — loose connections often appear in pairs.
Do I need a permit for outlet or switch work in Los Angeles?+
Like-for-like replacement of an existing device does not require a permit in LA. Adding a new outlet, running new wire, or modifying a circuit does require a permit through LADBS, including inspection. Most pros pull the permit on your behalf for an additional $150–300 in city fees plus their time. Skipping a required permit can void your home insurance if an electrical claim arises and creates a problem at resale.